Electrical Systems
- Reinstall house batteries, which should have been stored for the winter indoors and periodically charged. Check fluid levels on nonsealed batteries.
- Reinstall any electronics stored off the boat during the winter.
- Using battery power with shore power disconnected, test all electrical systems, including running lights, interior and exterior lights, VHF radio, chartplotter, radar (if safe to run in the boatyard—no one at the level of the radome), etc.
- After partially discharging the batteries with these tests, hook up shore power and run the charger; confirm batteries are receiving charge (use a voltmeter if unsure).
- At all accessible points, check wiring connections for corrosion and a tight fit. Use a spray corrosion inhibitor on open connections.
Steering System
- Lubricate the rudder shaft, if appropriate, with the correct grease.
- With wheel steering, check the cables on the steering quadrant below deck to ensure it is tight but not binding and has no broken wires. Lubricate the chain in the binnacle in the cockpit. Test the wheel turns the rudder smoothly through its full range.
- With a hydraulic steering system, check the condition of lines and check the fluid reservoir.
- With a tiller, inspect the fitting connecting the tiller arm to the rudderpost head to ensure a tight connection.
Other Boat Systems
Water System
- Drain winter antifreeze from water tanks and flush fresh water through all part of the system, opening all taps in succession.
- To ensure safe drinking water, shock the water system by refilling tanks with 1 cup bleach per 30 gallons of water. Run this solution into all water lines, let sit overnight, and then flush again before refilling. (Tank water can be safely treated thereafter with 2.5 oz. bleach per 30 gal. water.)
- Replace any charcoal filters at drinking water taps. (Filters can remove the bleach from treated water as well as filter out many microorganisms.)
- Check the operation of other water pumps, such as a shower sump pump.
- With a hot water tank, check its operation while on shore power.
Head and Holding Tank
- Inspect hoses to and from the head, holding tank, and other discharge points.
- Pour water into the head and pump it into the tank, observing for any leaks.
- With an older system, vinegar added to water pumped through the head once a month can help remove mineral scale. A couple ounces of mineral oil pumped through the head with water helps lubricate the pump occasionally.
- Do not lubricate the head’s moving parts unless called for in the manufacturer’s manual. Do not pour bleach into the head, which may damage pump parts.
- Check that the vent hose of the holding tank to the exterior is open. If the holding tank is well sealed and the vent open, no odors should be present and no tank odor treatment required.
- With a Y valve for discharge from the head either into the tank or overboard or to a deck pumpout, move the handle back and forth. Ensure it is correctly labeled and the handle secured in the correct position for use.
Safety Gear and Miscellaneous Preparations
Safety Equipment
- Check that manual and electrical bilge pumps are working. (This is a good time to flush the bilge clean with a biodegradable cleanser, since some of the cleanser will remain and be discharged later after the boat enters the water. )
- Check that the boat has appropriate Coast Guard-required flares and other signals such as a foghorn. Check expiration dates on flares and restock with new ones as needed (keep old ones for backups, or give to fire department for disposal).
- Check or reinstall a man-overboard system such as a LifeSling.
- Check fire extinguishers mounted in visible, accessible areas; check for a full charge and expiration date.
- Inspect the boat’s lifelines for signs of rust at end fittings (a sign they need replacing). Check that stanchions are secure.
- Ensure enough lifejackets or PFDs are aboard for crew and guests. Include a harness and tether and jacklines for going forward in rough conditions.
- Confirm wood plugs or a TruPlug is present in case of a broken through-full fitting allowing leaking.
- Check the ditch bag.
Other Preparations
- Lubricate and work all seacocks open and closed to prevent freezing. Inspect hose connections at each, which should have two nonrusting stainless steel hose clamps.
- Check fuel lines and cutoffs for galley stove. No propane should be stored belowdecks. With small propane canisters such as used with portable stoves and barbecue grills, safely discard any old canisters that may be rusting or developing potential leaks.
- With galley refrigeration, check operation while on shore power.
- Check for any damp areas below, and use a mildew remover to clean stained areas.
- Check the boat’s trailer before the first use. Look for areas potentially weakened by rust. Check the lights. Lubricate the bearings if appropriate. Check the tire pressure and tread, and inspect sidewalls for cracking. Ensure the boat is well secured to the trailer before moving it.
Just Before and After Launch
- Note in the log any tasks still to be done later after launch.
- Ensure the boat’s transom drain plug has been reinstalled, scuppers are open, and bilge drains closed.
- Close all seacocks (except the engine cooling water intake), and replace any impellers exiting the hull.
- Check the batteries are charged.
- Have dock lines and fenders ready to go.
- Once in the water, check the stuffing box (inboard engines) for excessive dripping.
- When heading out the first time, review safety procedures with guests and crew.
- Check the bilge for any unnoticed leaks before leaving the boat.
- Close all seacocks except those to cockpit drains.
